Frequently Asked Questions

National cost guides put new asphalt driveways at about $5 to $12 or more per square foot (HomeGuide) and $7 to $15 per square foot (Angi). HomeGuide lists a 400 square foot driveway at roughly $2,000 to $4,800 and notes that some contractors have a $2,000 minimum. Tear-out, base repair and long access runs add to that. You get a written price after we see the site.

Most of the cost is in things you never see: excavation, hauling, crushed stone, compaction and the trucks and rollers needed to place hot-mix while it is still hot. HomeGuide splits installed cost into roughly $3 to $6 or more per square foot of labor and $2 to $6 or more of material. Skipping base work is how a low quote turns into a driveway that cracks in two winters.

It can be done when the concrete is stable and not heaving, but cracks and joints in the slab tend to show back up through the asphalt over time. Thickness at the garage and the street also has to be worked out so the new surface does not create a lip. In many cases removing the concrete is the better long-term choice; we explain the trade-off at the estimate.

A common build is 2 to 3 inches of compacted asphalt over 6 to 8 inches of compacted stone. Driveways that carry trucks, RVs or trailers need 3 to 4 inches of asphalt and 8 to 10 inches of base. On wet Piedmont clay, the base often matters more than the top.

Spring through fall, when the ground is warm and dry. Hot-mix cools fast on cold ground and is hard to compact, so we avoid paving in the coldest weeks and plan around rain at any time of year.

Repaving that stays on your property usually does not reach the right-of-way process. Building a driveway connection in the public right-of-way uses the City of Greensboro driveway permit, and connections to state-maintained roads go through NCDOT. We check which applies to your address before work is scheduled.

Cost guides put asphalt driveway life at 15 to 30 years. Where yours lands depends on the base, drainage and upkeep. Sealing every few years and filling cracks before winter help it reach the long end.

Asphalt usually costs less up front: HomeGuide lists asphalt at $5 to $12 or more per square foot and concrete at $6 to $15. Concrete lasts longer, about 30 to 40 years against 15 to 30 for asphalt, but costs more to repair. Asphalt is easier to patch and resurface and handles small movements in clay soil without cracking as sharply.

Most residential driveways take one to three days of work: a day for removal and base, and a day for paving, with more time for large jobs or extra base repair. Rain can push the paving day back.

Yes. Steep driveways need careful compaction and attention to where water runs at the bottom. We look at the slope at the estimate and plan the drainage before paving.

Yes. Removal and haul-off are listed as their own line in the quote. Old asphalt is generally recycled.

Fresh asphalt can usually take light traffic within a day once it has cooled, but heavy trucks and sharp turns should wait longer. In hot weather we keep sections closed longer to avoid scuffing.

Usually. We split the lot into sections and keep an entrance and part of the parking open while each section is paved.

HomeAdvisor suggests every 2 to 5 years, depending on traffic and exposure. Sealing protects the surface binder; crack sealing should be done first.

We lay out accessible spaces, aisles and signage locations using the 2010 ADA Standards whenever we restripe. For new construction, the site plan approved by the city governs.

On a sound base with decent drainage, an overlay can last many years. On a failing base it can crack again within a year or two, which is why we check the base first.

Only if the potholes are repaired first. We cut out and rebuild pothole areas to full depth before the overlay goes down.

Sometimes, if the slab is stable. Joints and cracks in concrete often reflect through asphalt, so we discuss whether removal is the better choice.

Not if the edges are planned. We mill or cut back the old surface at the garage, walks and curb so the overlay meets them flush.

Usually. HomeGuide estimates overlays save roughly 20 to 30 percent compared with full replacement, because the existing pavement stays in place. The savings disappear if the base is failing, since the overlay will crack again.

Cold patch works as a temporary fix, especially in winter. It usually does not last as long as a hot-mix repair because it does not bond or compact the same way. We use it only when hot-mix is not available or as a stopgap.

Because the base under that spot is wet or soft. Until the clay is dug out and replaced with compacted stone, any patch on top will fail again.

New asphalt is darker at first. A sealcoat over the whole driveway after the patch has cured evens out the color.

Yes. We patch lots in sections and can schedule around business hours.

Repair now if the rest of the surface is sound. A pothole or broken edge lets water into the base and spreads every winter. If most of the driveway is failing, it may make more sense to put the money toward replacement.

Every few years, when the surface has faded to gray and stone is starting to show. HomeGuide gives a range of 2 to 10 years by product and climate. Sealing too often builds up layers that can peel.

No. Sealer is too thin and sinks into cracks. Cracks have to be cleaned and filled first, then sealed over.

Usually 12 to 72 hours, depending on temperature, humidity and shade. Walking is generally fine after a few hours.

Late summer and fall, before freezing weather, when cracks are open enough to take filler and the pavement is dry.

On a driveway that is still firm, yes: it slows oxidation and water damage. On one with widespread alligator cracking or sunken areas, sealcoat only covers up a failing base, and repairs or replacement come first.

No, but they are much better than loose gravel for many drives. Millings make a firm, dark surface that sheds most water, but it is not as smooth or watertight as new hot-mix.

Yes, over time. Traffic and summer heat help them bind. They are firmest after a season of use.

Yes. A well-compacted millings drive makes a good base for a future hot-mix layer.

Usually not. Loose material can wash down a steep slope in heavy rain, so steep sections often need new asphalt.

It depends on the base underneath and the traffic. On a sound gravel base, a few compacted inches of millings is common; on soft clay, base stone comes first. We specify the depth in the written quote.